Aronia Berry Juice Health Benefits They Are A Super Food

February 13th, 2012

written by Harold Stewart of Blueberry Croft
INTRODUCTION
Pucker up and prepare to experience the benefits of the tart Aronia Berry. The term “super food” gets used a lot, but when it comes to the Aronia berries and aronia berry juice health benefits, the term is well-deserved. Aronia berries are a genuine miracle of nature. Aronia is a low-maintenance and nearly a pest-free crop. It is easy to grow the aronia plant organically because it does not need to be protected against pathogens, pest, and diseases, as a result the fruit does not contain traces of pesticides.
They are 3 times healthier than blueberries. The unique taste of aronia berry is one of life’s unique experiences. Their high antioxidant levels, and high tannin levels make aronia berries tart. The berries are often made into juice mixed with other juice or made into jelly or other products.. Another juice or sweetener is often added to reduce the tart taste

THIS JUICE IS AN ANTIOXIDANT LEADER
First, aronia berry juice is a leading source of antioxidants. Antioxidants as you probably know are composed of a variety of compounds this includes vitamins, enzymes, bio-flavonoids, and peroxidases. Antioxidants break down the free radical molecule neutralizing it. Free radicals formed in your body essentially damage the cells leading to a host of negative effects, including making you age faster and rendering you less able to fight off diseases.
Drinking aronia berry juice supplies your body with free radical eliminating compounds that helps get rid of many of them. This helps you slow the process of aging and fend off disease. This claim it is backed up by solid science.
ESSENTIAL ACIDS OFFER DIFFERENT ARONIA BERRY JUICE HEALTH BENEFITS
Constituents within the aronia berry include tannic acid, folic acid, quinic acid, phenolic acids, catechins, ascorbic acid, known as vitamin C as well as Vitamins B6, B12, and E, minerals, resveratrol, hesperidin and rutin.

The primary organic acids in aronia berries are: tartaric, natural polyphenolic compounds, antioxidants, malic, and citric. This produces a low pH of 3.3-3.8 inside berries. This in turn hinders bacterial invasion and facilitates transport and storage of aronia berries.
Aronia berry juice is high in tannic acid, or tannins, which is well known to be an anti-inflammatory agent. The tannins in aronia berry is what gives aronia berries their astringent taste that most people find objectionable. Aronia berry juice is reported to ease intestinal inflammation, and also inflammation of the joints, or even the skin.
Inflammation causes blood levels of certain proteins to be elevated. Inflammation causes the disruption of normal brain molecules. Inflammatory proteins are thought to possibly be connected to the development of Alzheimer’s disease
Let’s talk about cancer one of the most dreaded diseases. It is well known that anyone can get cancer, and so it only makes sense to take any precautions you can to eat and drink as much as practical of the healthy foods which do the most to give you the greatest chance of preventing the start of cancer. Aronia berry juice fends off cancer in a variety of ways.
Aronia berry juice also helps prevent cancer of the stomach and colon because it contains pectin, which is a soluble form of fiber. Aronia berry has a substantial amount of pectin. Pectin is a substance that is needed to thicken jams. It can be added to other fruits that are low in pectin when making jams. Pectin bonds to cholesterol in the the stomach and intestine slowing glucose absorption by trapping carbohydrates. The consumption of pectin has been shown to reduce blood cholesterol levels.
EYE PROTECTION AND ARONIA BERRIES
Amazingly, aronia berry juice offers some protection for the agonizing condition of macular degeneration of the eyes. This is something for which there is no cure, and which causes blindness. A study found that those who drink high amounts of fruit juices, especially antioxidant rich juices like aronia berry and blueberry juice, have far less chance of developing macular generation as they grow older.

ARONIA BERRIES AS A MEMORY AGENT
Another one of the aronia berry juice health benefits is memory improvement. Aronia berries and blueberries have been shown to not only increase brain function, but specifically memory. This is creating excitement among the scientific community because it suggests high aronia berry or blueberry/juice diets can play a role in preventing or staving off Alzheimer’s disease. Purple berries like aronia berries are reported to promote Health and Anti-Aging. The dark purple pigmentation with their high level of antioxidants called anthocyanins and have been reported to promote mental focus, protect the heart and vision, and prevent free-radical damage or oxidative stress.

GROW YOUR OWN .
Why not think about adding a few aronia plants? If you want to become more self-sufficient you might want to think about planting some low maintenance Aronia berry shrubs. Purchase your Aronia berry plants from a reputable farm and nursery. The berries are produced on easy to grow shrubs that have low maintenance and add beauty to your landscape. Nero aronia plants grow about 3 to 4 feet tall and can make a nice hedge as well as being a source of fruit. A few plants could produce all the aronia berries you need for the year. You can freeze those you do not use during the harvest time and have them throughout the year. You could also make juice and freeze it for use later.

SUMMARY .
In my view, aronia berry is one of the best investments in your health. For less than the price of a cup of coffee at Dunkin’ Donuts, McCafé at McDonald’s or Starbucks you can have an anti- inflammatory, anti-heart disease, anti-cancer, anti-Alzheimer’s, anti-diabetes, eye protection, and memory enhancing aronia berry drink that’s delicious and healthful. Make some juice from your own home grown plants and keep it in the refrigerator or freezer for daily use.

Purchase your pesticide free aronia and blueberries from (Blueberry Croft Farm and Nursery). We understand both the theory and practical applications of growing aronia and blueberries. The farm is a reputable source for quality aronia and blueberry plants. Over 30 varieties of blueberries are grown and sold. Viking aronia plants are available for sale. Purchase your plants and get more information from http://www.blueberrycroft.com/. Get free S/H on orders of $75+. © 2011 May be reproduced in entirety with live link

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Fertilizer Basics: Blueberries, Azaleas and Rhododendrons

February 12th, 2012

Introduction

When nurseries grow Blueberries, azaleas and rhododendrons in containers, they often do it in a soilless medium that contains no nutrients of its own. The nursery people generously add all the fertilizer the plants need to grow so that the plants are quick to grow to salable size. When you plant a plant such as an azalea or rhododendron, they may quickly use up whatever nutrients remain in its root zone and will have to reach out into soil around it to get the nutrients it needs.

Nutrients plants need

Plants need three major nutrients. These are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K)–and several minor nutrients. The label list the proportions of the major nutrients in order (N-P-K) under “Guaranteed analysis.” For example, a 20-4-11 8-9 month fertilizer contains 20 percent nitrogen, 4 percent phosphorus, and 11 percent potassium. It is a slow release fertilizer that releases nutrients for 8 — 9 months. Because it contains all three major nutrients, it is called a complete fertilizer. This fertilizer is used by Blueberry Croft Nursery for growing blueberry plants in pots. By fertilizing you can help encourage root spread into the soil around it. However, one word a caution, you can burn and kill your plants by over fertilizing so take care to not add too much fertilizer.

Granular and liquid fertilizers

The specialty fertilizers are intended to acidify the soil, and usually have the plant obtain their nitrogen from ammonium sulfate. That is useful if your soil is not naturally acidic, but if your soil is already in the right range for blueberries, azaleas and rhododendrons, there’s little advantage to an acid fertilizer. General-purpose fertilizers work as well and are usually less costly. Fertilizers available for sale come in either granular or liquid form. The cheaper choice is usually granular fertilizers. They are intended to be scattered over the root zone two or three times each year. To encourage roots to grow out into native garden soil, sprinkle the fertilizer in a wide, doughnut-shaped band straddles the edge of the drip line and water it and the mulch well. At blueberry Croft farm and nursery 14-12-14 5-6 month fertilizer is used for growing plants in the field. This is a granular slow release fertilizer. Liquid fertilizer usually comes in the form of water soluble granules that can be dissolved for application. There are two ways it can be used: 1) for foliar feeding of the plant leaves directly by spraying onto the plants’ leaves or 2) poured around the plant to soak the roots.

When to fertilize

Because liquid fertilizer is much less concentrated than granular, and because it flushes through the soil faster, you have to apply it more frequently–as often as once every week or two during the growing season. Miracle-Grow MirAcid or Algoflash fertilizer is often used. Miracle-Gro Miracid Water Soluble Plant Food may be applied anytime during the day (or night, in case of indoor plants). When applying to actively growing outdoor perennial plants from spring to fall you can apply until the ground is frozen. As long as the ground is not frozen the plant can absorb nutrients and pass them down to their roots for winter storage. Do not fertilize dormant plants.

The nitrogen in liquid fertilizers is usually made from urea, which can be taken in through plant leaves. Applying fertilizer to the plant leaves (called foliar feeding) is best done in the cool of the morning when the sun is not directly shining on the plants. At this time of day the plant leaves are better utilize the fertilizer.
As a rule it is best to not feed plants with high nitrogen after mid-summer since fertilizer encourages plants to put on new growth that may not harden off in time to withstand fall frosts. The age of the plant is often a determining factor with regard to the fertilizer requirements. . Young plants need more fertilizer to get established speedily, while mature plants don’t usually require much fertilizer.

Algoflash

Algoflash is Europe’s fastest growing plant food and includes a wide range of products totally devoted to the nutrition of household and garden plants. Algoflash consists of 100 percent mineral base and a range of very pure trace elements and magnesium. It is odorless and not toxic. It provides the plant with a source of the essential elements needed for growth.

Planting plants and their care

At planting time – Before planting, blueberries, azalea and rhododendron dig fertilizer into the soil. Purchase your plants from a reputable nursery such as Blueberry Croft farm and nursery. The best buy is two-year-old plants. New plantings should be fertilized with a water soluble or slow release fertilizer and should be watched carefully for lack of water. If your plants do not grow or produce well you should then recheck soil for acidity and nutrients. Use composted manure for nitrogen, greensand for potassium and rock phosphate for phosphorus. The rock phosphate is important, since phosphorus is hard to get into the root zone after planting (it doesn’t move through the soil easily). Greensand (potassium silicate) is a naturally occurring mineral also known as glauconite. It is a long-term, slow-releasing fertilizer. Greensand is a rich source of potassium (7.15% available K2O), and also contains as many as 30 other trace nutrients. It will help to improve the soil. In NPK terms it is about a 0-0-7.
Apply all ingredients according to label directions. Blueberries require a PH of 4.5 to 5.5 (acidic) and a high moisture content. Plant your blueberry plants in a mixture of peat moss and soil or pine bark fines and soil. Mulching with organic material, peat moss, sawdust, wood chips, pine needles or decomposed leaves is excellent. Blueberries should be watered often, but over watering for extended periods of time may be harmful, if the top inch is damp you’re OK.

Blueberries are shallow rooted & should not be cultivated, keep the area around the bushes mowed for attractive appearance & ease of picking. New plantings should be watched carefully for lack of water. If your plants don’t grow well or produce as they should check the soil acidity and nutrients. To grow and produce well they must have the right soil conditions. When a newly planted blueberry, azalea or rhododendron drops its lower leaves, it’s usually because the plant had to use up the nutrient reserves it stored there. That’s a good sign that it needs feeding. Do that by sprinkling a complete fertilizer like a 14-12-14 plus trace elements on top of the soil before you water the plant in. Apply 1 tablespoon per foot of growth; in other words, give a 2-foot plant 2 tablespoons of complete fertilizer.

Watering
Watering Water is one of the most important needs in establishing and maintaining productive blueberries, particularly during their first year of growth. You should water plants thoroughly at planting and twice weekly for the first year until they become established. Water plants for a longer time once or twice a week, rather than for a short time each day. Because blueberry plants have the ability to retract water from berries, adequate moisture, particularly during fruit production is essential to producing plump juicy berries. Blueberries set buds in the late summer and early fall. The plants must receive adequate moisture for plant growth and bud development.

Plant care in the spring
In early spring – As buds swell (but well before bloom) apply 14-12-14 5-6 month granular complete slow-release fertilizer. Some slow release fertilizers release in response to warmer temperatures and may not be effective in our cooler weather. Read the label. It takes about a handful per mature plant to do the job, but “don’t put it on any heavier than you’d put salt on your corn or sugar on your grapefruit”. If you’re after more precision, a good rule of thumb is to apply one level tablespoon of fertilizer per foot of plant growth. At leaf emergence – New leaves start growing just as blooms fade. After they unfold completely, apply another light dose of compost tea foliar fertilizer, especially if new leaves look pale.

Summer and fall plant care
In fall – Most plants don’t usually need fall feeding, but they may benefit from top dressing with rotted mature manure in October. If you have plants that didn’t put on much growth and look like they need a boost, you can give them a dose of 5-10-10 or 14-12-14 granular fertilizer.
To help in the greening of pale leaves use a foliar feed like Miracle grow or compost tea.
Chlorosis is a condition in which leaves produce insufficient chlorophyll. Chlorophyll is responsible for the green color of leaves. Chlorotic leaves are pale, yellow, or yellow-white. For The yellowing or whitening of normally green (chlorotic) younger leaves: usually an iron deficiency. Use chelated iron foliar feed or blood meal.

A decrease in the amount of chlorophyll results in yellowing or whitening of foliage this is often as a result of disease or nutrient deficiency. usually a magnesium or manganese deficiency. For magnesium deficiencies you can directly apply Epsom salts (Magnesium sulfate) to the soil lightly around the drip line or dissolve 1-2TBS. Epsom salts to a gallon of warm water and drench the soil. For manganese use barnyard manure.

Purchase your pesticide free aronia and blueberries from (Blueberry Croft Farm and Nursery). We understand both the theory and practical applications of growing aronia and blueberries. They are naturally grown without the use of harsh pesticides from at Blueberry Croft Farm and Nursery. The farm is a reputable source for quality aronia and blueberry plants. Over 30 varieties of blueberries are grown and sold. Viking aronia plants are available for sale. Purchase your plants and get more information from http://www.blueberrycroft.com/. Get free S/H on orders of $75+. © 2011 by Harold Stewart May be reproduced in entirety with live link.

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Five Types of Blueberry Plants and Their Characteristics

February 10th, 2012

Introduction

There are five types of blueberry plants commonly grown. This article list and discusses these and their characteristics. Some examples of popular varieties for each type is also listed.

1. Northern Highbush Vaccinium corymbosum -

- These are high chill varieties for zones 3-7 with 800 to 1,000 chill hours needed. The Northern Highbush Blueberry is a species of blueberry native to eastern northern United States. They are high chill varieties and are the most extensively planted blueberries in the world. If these northern high-bush varieties do not get the required number of chill hours they will not produce. These bushes are rated zone 3 through zone 7 which includes most of the Central, Western, mid-West, and Eastern United States as well as some parts of Canada. These varieties display bush shapes from short and compact to tall and open. The berries range in size from ¼” to over 1″ in diameter, and in color from dark blue to light blue. Northern Highbush blueberries require a minimum of 800 chilling hours for proper fruit set. All cultivars are self-pollinating but will produce better crops if more than one variety is planted.
Some examples include:
• Bluecrop is recommended for growing in zones 4 to 7.
• Bluegold is also sometimes listed as a half high variety because of it short height and parentage. It is recommended for growing in zones 4 to 7.
• Blueray is recommended for growing in zones 3 to 7.
• Duke is recommended for growing in zones 4 to 7.
• Elliott is recommended for growing in zones 4 to 7.
• Hardyblue is recommended for growing in zones 4 to 8.
• Jersey is recommended for growing in zones 4 to 7.
• Legacy is recommended for growing in zones 5 to 8.
• Patriot is also sometimes listed as a half high variety because of it short height and parentage. It is recommended for growing in zones 3 to 7.
• Rubel is a wild Highbush type cultivar. It is recommended for growing in zones4 to 7.

2.: Southern Highbush (Vaccinium corymbosum hybrid)
 -

- Southern Highbush are specifically hybridized to produce superior fruit, soil adaptability, heat tolerance and low winter chilling. The Southern Highbush blueberry is a cross between Northern Highbush blueberries and native Southern species, giving it a greater range of adaptation than either of its parents. The Southern Highbush tolerates a wider range of soil conditions and temperature variations. The fruits are smaller than Rabbiteye blueberries but no less tasty.These are low chill varieties for use in zones 5 to 10 with 150 to 800 chill hours required. Most Southern Highbush are self-pollinating, but the berries will be larger if two varieties are planted together. These varieties have low winter chilling requirements. “Chilling” is a measure of accumulated hours of temperatures below 45°F but above 32 degrees F in the dormant season.
Some examples include:
• Jubilee is recommended for growing in zones 5 to 9.
• Misty is recommended for growing in zones 5 to 10.
• Oneal is recommended for growing in zones 5 to 9.
• Sharpblue is recommended for growing in zones 7 to 9.
• Sunshine Blue is recommended for growing in zones 5 to 10.
• Golf coast is recommended for growing in zones 6 to10.
• Ozarkblue is recommended for growing in zones 5 to 9.

3. : Half-High Blueberries (Vaccinium corymbosum x V. angustifolium)

Half-High Blueberries is a term used for a grouping of blueberry bushes with similar characteristics They are the result, as the name might signify, of crosses between Northern Highbush and Lowbush blueberries selections from the wild.. They will grow only 2 to 4 feet tall. These are generally high chill varieties for Zones 3 to 7 and need 1,000 to 1,200 of chill hours. In recent years, Agriculture Research Stations have released many new “half-high” blueberry plants. All these varieties have the “wild” flavor of their parents. The Half-Highs were bred for exceptional cold hardiness but are truly outstanding ornamental landscape plants wherever they are grown. All theses varieties have amazing fall colors. In general, these bushes will partially be able to pollinate themselves, though they will always do better with another variety with which they can to cross-pollinate.
Some examples include:
• Northcountry– Its parentage is (G65X Ashworth) X R2P4 Univ. of Minnesota. It grows successfully in zones 3 to 7.
• Northsky–.Its parentage is (G65 X Ashworth) X R2P4 Univ. of Minnesota. It grows successfully in zones 3 to 7.
• Northland – Its source is Michigan Univ. It grows successfully in zones 3 to 7.
• Polaris – Its parentage is Bluetta X (G65 X Ashworth). It grows successfully in zones 3 to 7.
• Bluegold — Its parentage is Blue Haven X (Ashworth X Bluecrop). It grows successfully in zones 4 to 7.
• Friendship – Its source is a Seedling of native plant found growing near Friendship, WI. It grows successfully in zones 3 to 7.
• Patriot – Its parentage is US3 X Earliblue Univ. of Maine. It grows successfully in zones 3 to 7.

4. : Wild Lowbush Blueberries (Vaccinium angustifolium
sp.)

these are high chill varieties for zones 3 to 7 and need 1,000 to 1,200 chill hours. Wild Lowbush Blueberries are a native fruit crop to Atlantic Canada, Quebec and the state of Maine. Wild Blueberries have grown naturally for thousands of years. They are short in stature and unlike their Highbush cousins, are primarily spread by rhizomes or underground runners, which give rise to new roots and stems. A mature planting can form a dense ground cover. Profuse white blooms yield small-sized light blue fruit with the distinctive “wild” blueberry taste. Annual pruning is not necessary but they respond well if two-thirds of the growth is sheared back every second or third year in late winter. They are great candidates for landscape borders.
Some examples include:
• Top Hat is Lowbush, dwarf type cultivar. Top Hat is strictly used for ornamental landscape and container purposes. It is recommended for growing in zones 3-7.
• RUBY CARPET is a Lowbush selection developed by the state of Maine. It is recommended for growing in zones 3-7. The height of plants will be 4 to 6 inches at maturity and spread outward to create the red carpet.

5. Rabbiteye blueberries, Vaccinium ashei

These are low chill varieties for Zones 7 to 9.
Rabbiteye blueberries have grown in popularity all across the South. Part of the reason for the popularity of rabbiteye blueberries may be that few major pests of rabbiteye blueberries have been identified. Rabbiteye varieties are resident to the southeastern United States.Rabbiteye plants are more vigorous, easier to be cared for and live longer, than the majority of southern variety. They can handle drought superior to Highbush blueberries. They can grow adequately in soils with a lower amount of organic material in them. Rabbiteye blueberries are usually firmer than southern varieties with thicker skin. The seeds tend to be somewhat more distinct than Highbush. Their after harvest shelf life is exceptional and usually superior to Highbush. The demand for blueberries has increased as more is known about the health benefits of blueberries. Southerners have often not discovered the outstanding quality of rabbiteye blueberries.

Pest of rabbiteye blueberries

A gall midge, is a newly discovered pest of rabbiteye blueberries in the southeastern US. Midge larvae feed inside and destroy flower buds the result is low yields. Rabbiteye blueberry cultivars differ very much in their resistance to blueberry gall midge infestation. Powderblue and Brightwell are highly resistant to flower bud damage; Climax, and Tifblue are moderately susceptible; and Premier is highly susceptible. Most southern Highbush blueberry cultivars are highly resistant to flower bud damage.
Some examples include:
• Premier- It is an early mid-season ripening rabbiteye producing high yields of firm delicious fruits. They are recommended for growing in zones 7 to 9.
• Climax- It is a mid-season ripening blueberry with great flavor! The fruits are firm and an excellent choice for fresh and process markets. They are recommended for growing in zones 7 to 9.
• Powderblue- It is one of the most attractive rabbiteye blueberries that is late maturing. The fruits are medium size and easily removed from the plant. The flavor is sweet. They are recommended for growing in zones 7 to 9.
• Brightwell- It is a late ripening berry with excellent quality. Flavor is good the fruit size and berry appearance is attractive for fresh markets. They are recommended for growing in zones 7 to 9.
• Tifblue- It is a late ripening variety. Tifblue has been the most widely planted blueberry in the southeast, because it is productive and has firm fruit. They are recommended for growing in zones 7 to 9.

Summary

There are a number of different types of blueberries that are suitable for different purposes and growing zones. The one thing they all have in common is their high antioxidant capacity and health benefits. You should grow your own pesticide free blueberries. They can be purchased from a reputable on-line source. Purchase those that are best suited for your growing zone.

Purchase your pesticide free blueberry and aronia plants and from (Blueberry Croft Farm and Nursery). We understand both the theory and practical applications of growing aronia and blueberries. The farm is a reputable source for quality aronia and blueberry plants. Over 30 varieties of blueberries are grown and sold. Viking aronia plants are available for sale. Purchase your plants and get more information from http://www.blueberrycroft.com/. Get free S/H on orders of $75+. © 2011 May be reproduced in entirety with live link

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Blueberry Plants – Chilling Requirements for Blueberry Production

February 10th, 2012

Introduction

After the blueberry harvest the blueberry bushes start to develop the next seasons fruit buds. They then start preparing for the cold winter weather. If cold conditions do not arrive suddenly the pants will go into dormancy and with little to be concerned about. All blueberries varieties require about a certain number of hours of chilling. Above freezing temperatures but below about 45 F are needed by the blueberry plants to meet their chilling requirements. In the fall the temperatures will be cool enough so the plants can begin to accumulate needed chilling hours. The blueberry plant will not produce fruit the next season if the chilling need is not accomplished. Long periods of below freezing weather simply delays the finishing of dormancy but does not add to the chilling requirements. After the plants chilling need is accomplished the plants will begin growth when the conditions for growth become right. It is for this reason that blueberry plants may be able to be grown indoors because of their requirement for chilling hours.

Chilling hour requirements

Everyone who is interested in growing their own fruit will eventually be faced with the issue of chill units (CU). This is especially the case when growing blueberry plants in the south. Chill hours are the hours accumulated where temperatures are between 32 degrees F to 45 degrees F. Some other fruits such as Peaches and Apples that have evolved in colder climates have chill requirements.
The amount of cold temperature the plant needs to continue normal growth in the spring following the winter season is usually referred to as the plant’s chilling requirement. Different blueberry plants vary widely in their requirement. Blueberry producers need to take into account the blueberry plants chilling requirements when they select them for planting.
The chill time is amount of cold temperature required to meet the chilling time required by a blueberry plant determine the area in which they can be planted. Temperatures between approximately 35 to 45 degrees F supply most of the chilling needed by blueberry plants. The most effective chilling temperature is 45 degrees F. Temperatures below 32 degrees F add little or nothing to the chilling needs being received by the plant
Depending on the variety, blueberry plants need between 150 and 2,000 hours of exposure to temperatures from 35 [degrees] F to 45 [degrees] F are needed to meet the plants chilling requirement and for growth resumption and bud-break in the spring. Chill time does not accumulate at below freezing temperatures. This means that temperatures below freezing to not count toward needed chilling hours.

Chilling requirements for some Southern Blueberries.

Southern highbush varieties are blueberry plants that grow from zones 6 through 10. They require much less chill hours some other varieties. Some need only 150 to 200 chill hours to produce fruit. This means you can grow blueberries in the southern United States.
Some southern blueberry bush varieties and their chilling requirements are listed in order of increasing times for chilling below.
Sunshine blue 150 hours chilling time
Jewel 200 hours Chill time requirement
Sharpblue 200 hours Chill time requirement
MISTY 250 hours Chill time requirement
Emerald 250 hours chilling hours requirement This is excellent choice for the warmer areas, because the Southern Highbush plants only require 250 chilling hours to produce record-setting quantities of very large blueberries.
O’Neal 400 hours Chill time requirement
Jubilee 500 chilling time requirement
Ozarkblue 800 hours Chilling time requirement
Of the Southern Highbush, as seen in the above list, Sunshine Blue Blueberry plants are the least demanding in terms of chilling requirements. You need a minimum of 150 Chill Hours to grow one.
Sunshine Blue has a lot of good characteristics. Sunshine Blue is a semi-dwarf, with pretty hot pink flowers that change to white in spring. It yields large crops of delicious blueberries. It can tolerate higher pH soils better than many other blueberries and it is self-pollinating. The chilling requirement of 150 hours is lower than any other blueberry plant making it right for Southern climates, but it is also astonishingly cold-hardy and makes a great addition to gardens and patios all the way up to Chicago.

Rabbiteye Varieties

Rabbiteye blueberries are native to the southern United States. They have been in commercial cultivation for over 100 years and in recent years better varieties have been developed. The Tifblue Blueberry bush was a breakthrough in hybridizing rabbiteye blueberry plants. The hybridized rabbiteye cultivars initiated the rise of the remarkable rabbiteye blueberry commercial trade. This has resulted in a remarkable agricultural growth in blueberry production that is reshaping the economy of the South. The rabbiteye blueberries have chilling hour requirement from 350 to 700 hours. Rabbiteyes flower earlier but ripen later than southern varieties. The shelf life of harvested rabbiteye blueberries is outstanding and generally better than highbush blueberries.
Some of the popular rabbiteye blueberry bush varieties and their chilling requirements listed in order of increasing times for chilling are listed below.
BRIGHTWELL. 350-400 chill hours requirement.
Climax – 450 – 500 chill hours requirement.
PREMIER 550 chill hours requirement.
TIFBLUE 550-600 chill hours requirement.
POWDERBLUE 550-650 chill hours requirement.

Northern varieties

Northern high bush varieties need a large amount (usually 800-1,000) of chill hours to produce blueberries. These blueberry plants are that grow in zone 3 through zone 7.
If a blueberry bush does not obtain the necessary number of chill hours it may and often will grow fine but will not make any blueberries.

Purchase your pesticide free blueberry and aronia plants and from (Blueberry Croft Farm and Nursery). We understand both the theory and practical applications of growing aronia and blueberries. The farm is a reputable source for quality aronia and blueberry plants. Over 30 varieties of blueberries are grown and sold. Viking aronia plants are available for sale. Purchase your plants and get more information from http://www.blueberrycroft.com/. Get free S/H on orders of $75+. © 2011 May be reproduced in entirety with live link

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Rabbiteye Blueberries Verses Southern and Northern Highbush

February 9th, 2012

Introduction

Rabbiteyes get the name rabbiteye from the fact that the blueberries are pinkish-white unripe resembling the eyes of an albino rabbit before they turn blue. Highbush blueberries (V. corymbosum) grow naturally in northeastern United States. One of the most common wild northern highbush blueberries that is still very popular is Rubel which is very high in antioxidants. Rubel is one of the oldest varieties from the early 1900′s. Highbush bushes are not called highbush in relation to rabbiteye plants in fact it is shorter than rabbiteye plants. Highbush has its name because in comparison to lowbush blueberries it is taller. Lowbush generally produce small berries that are excellent for use in pastries. Rubel is an example of this type of blueberry and is very high in antioxidants. Another common blueberry bush name is Southern Highbush Blueberry. Southern Highbush blueberries bushes are often a cross between a rabbiteye and a northern highbush or lowbush blueberry plant. Certain of these new southern highbush varieties have low-chill requirements of only 200 to 300 hours at temperatures of 45 degrees F and lower. This has made it possible to extend blueberry production as far south as Florida. The chilling hour’s requirement for rabbiteye plants is350 to 650 for regular leaf and bloom development. The chilling requirements for northern highbush are 650 to 1000 hours.

Southern highbush varieties

Southern highbush varieties do offer several important advantages such as being thinner skinned and the fact that they ripen 1 to 3 weeks earlier than the earliest ripening rabbiteye cultivars. The blueberries from southern highbush are as large as and often larger than rabbiteye blueberries which make it more desirable for fresh and processing markets. The plants are less vigorous, and plants do not become as tall as rabbiteyes, they are usually lower yielding, and are more vulnerable to diseases and insects. The low chilling requirement of the southern highbush promotes very early flowering and much greater danger of late spring frosts damage.

Rabbiteye blueberries

Rabbiteyes flower before highbush blueberries, making them more susceptible to spring frosts. Highbush blueberries can also be affected by spring frost and the time they flower time may only be a week or two later. But a week or two in the spring can be the difference between having a crop and losing the crop or having a smaller crop. Even though they bloom later than rabbiteye, most highbush blueberries ripen about a month before the rabbiteye. The fruits of Highbush blueberry are typically larger; their fruit is jucier, and their skin is thinner. Quality of highbush after freezing is quite high while the skin of rabbiteyes after freezing becomes tougher. When it comes to eating fresh the rabbiteyes may be somewhat sweeter. After freezing, highbush blueberries might may be more tender. Highbush blueberries are vulnerable to several diseases. Rabbiteyes are virtually disease free and tend to have much longer fruitful lives. In 20 years the rabbiteyes will still be producing but the highbush may not.

Northern Highbush blueberries

Northern high-bush varieties are the most widely planted blueberries in the world. They are types of bushes that need a high number of “chill hours” to get their fruit set. If these northern high-bush varieties do not get the required number of chill hours they will not produce. These bushes are rated zone 4 through zone 7 which includes most of the Central, Western, mid-West, and Eastern United States as well as some parts of Canada. Highbush (northern) blueberries will do well in most locations in Kentucky, while rabbiteyes may do alright in warm southern parts. In Kentucky rabbiteyes flower one to one and a half weeks before highbush blueberries making them more susceptible to late spring frost damage. Harvest for rabbiteye is however later than that of highbush cultivars.

Variety Selection

Rabbiteyes need to be cross-pollination in order to be fertilized. Rabbiteyes are not self pollinating. You must plant more than one variety for cross-pollination to occur. It is suggested that you plant both highbush and rabbiteye in suitable growing zones that have different ripening times. That way you can have blueberries almost the entire season and you can decide for yourself which blueberries you prefer. The different species of both cultivars have blueberries that vary in sweetness and taste.

Favorite northern highbushes include Hannah’s choice, Blueray, Bluegold, Bluecrop,. Duke, Elliot, and Jersey.

Favorite southern highbushes include ‘Ozarkblue, Legacy, Misty, Gulf Coast, O’Neal Sharpblue and Sunshine blue,.

Ozarkblue is not a rabbiteye however like rabiteyes is drought resistance. Ozarkblue is a favorite variety that has other outstanding characteristics. It is not bothered by heat, does not need as much irrigation, resists spring frosts, and is one of the highly productive plants producing excellent highbush berries. Unlike rabbiteye it is self pollinating. It is a mid/late crop, just before the rabbiteyes.
Favorite rabbiteye plants include Climax, Brightwell, Premier, Tifblue, and Powderblue.
Premier and Tifblue are common choices for rabbiteyes. They are both highly productive. Premier Rabbiteye has excellent flavor and it stores very well. Tifblue is the latest ripening of the rabbiteye varieties.
Tifblue is considered among best rabbiteyes. The Tiftblue blueberries are among the most flavorful rabbiteye blueberries. They are more capable of surviving cold than other rabbiteye blueberries varieties. It should probably be the main rabbiteye variety in any garden. Tifblue blueberry is a hybrid cultivar that has helped initiate the rise of the dramatic growth in growing rabbiteye blueberries. This growth has developed into a new blueberry Agricultural bonanza that is reshaping the economy of the South.
By selecting several varieties with different ripening times the length of your harvest time can be spread out. Rabbiteyes do not ripen all at the same time. The berries may ripen over a several week period. Here are some of the most popular rabbiteye blueberries today according to their ripening season.

Popular Rabbiteye varieties.

Early Season
Climax
Brightwell
Premier

Mid Season
Tifblue
Powderblue

Purchase your pesticide free blueberry and aronia plants and from (Blueberry Croft Farm and Nursery). We understand both the theory and practical applications of growing aronia and blueberries. The farm is a reputable source for quality aronia and blueberry plants. Over 30 varieties of blueberries are grown and sold. Viking aronia plants are available for sale. Purchase your plants and get more information from http://www.blueberrycroft.com/. Get free S/H on orders of $75+. © 2011 May be reproduced in entirety with live link

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Growing Rabbiteye Blueberries, Part 3 Irrigation, Fertilizing, Pruning and Harvest

February 9th, 2012

Irrigation

Water is a critical requirement in establishing and supporting the growth of productive blueberries. This is particularly true during their establishment in the first year of growth. The feeder roots of blueberries do not have root hairs and the roots do not go very deep making the blueberry plants very susceptible to drought conditions. Use 1/2 gallon per day for 1-year plants. Plants should be watered thoroughly when planted and twice weekly thereafter for their first year of growth. Water plants for a long time once or twice per week. Increase the rate of watering 1 gallon per year until a rate of 5 gallon per day is reached in 5 years. Water is very important during the fruit-ripening period. Blueberry plants have the capacity to take back water from blueberries if water becomes scarce, the availability of adequate moisture is thus particularly important during fruit production in order to produce plump, juicy berries. Blueberries form buds in the late summer and early fall. During this time the plants must be given adequate moisture for bud development and plant growth. Blueberries need well-drained acid soil and supplemental water during dry times. Rabbiteye are a bit more able to withstand drought and less-than-ideal pH than most highbush blueberries.

Fertilizer and Mulch.

Do not apply any commercial fertilizers the first year of the blueberry plants growth. After that you can use ammonium sulfate or fertilizer for azalea and rhododendrons. Fertilizers Frequent very small applications of fertilizer should be used or preferably use slow release fertilizer. . To grow plants in the field a slow release used by some blueberry farms such as Blueberry Croft Farm and Nursery is 14-12-14 (6 month) fertilizer with trace elements in their blueberry fields. Place the fertilizer uniformly surrounding the plant before mulch is applied. A general rule of thumb is to fertilize blueberries in the early spring just about the time the plants are coming out of dormancy and before their leaves start their growth. This way the blueberry fertilizer has time to penetrate the soil and make it to the roots of the blueberry plant before it starts active growth.
Mulch is another very important factor for blueberry growth. Mulch helps provide for cooling for the soil and conserves soil moisture as well as controlling weeds and acidifying the soil. A mulch of approximately 3 to 5 inches deep is needed and should applied 2 feet out from on both sides of the base of the blueberry bush. making a 4 foot wide strip of mulch. This is mainly important in the early years while the plants are getting established. Different sources of organic materials that can be used include wood shavings, peat moss, pine bark, pine straw, leaves and grass clippings and saw dust. Barnyard manure should not be used as it may contain toxic salts. Remove any weeds that grow through the mulch by hand.
Finely ground sulfur can be used to amend or ammonium sulfate can be used to change the pH to 4.5 to 5.1. Submit samples of soil from selected sites to your local county extension services for analysis.

Controlling Diseases, And Insects

Rabbiteyes have very few natural pest thus spraying for pests is rarely required. This makes rabbiteye blueberries an ideal crop to grow organically.

Pruning

The rabbiteyes require a quite a bit of pruning compared to the other varieties. Rabbiteye plants grow taller (8-18 ft) and need to be trimmed down to a manageable height.
Lower branches can be pruned out to keep the fruit above the soil. During the dormant season weak or dead branches should be pruned out each year. Branches can be thinned out so the middle of the bush is keep open and to keep the blueberries within reach for picking.
Rabbiteye plants can get quite tall, up to 18 feet if allowed to grow unrestrained. You will need to prune vigorously after a few years of growth in order to keep them producing well and to keep their height within a manageable range. To accommodate mechanical pickers rabbiteye plants are often hedge rowed. Highbush plants average about six to eight feet in height, though some may top out at ten to twelve feet tall. Blueberry bushes benefit from pruning after a few years.

Harvest

Rabbiteye blueberries should be permitted to ripen on the blueberry bush. The fruit of most rabbiteye varieties will ripen over a several week period. The blueberries should be picked only when they are completely ripe; otherwise they will be bitter. After the blueberries begin to ripen they should be harvested every 5 to 7 days. A mature bush can produce 8 -15 lbs of berries (about 5,000 – 8,500 lb per acre). The primary pest seem to be birds.. Netting is an effective way to protect against birds.

Purchase your pesticide free blueberry and aronia plants and from (Blueberry Croft Farm and Nursery). We understand both the theory and practical applications of growing aronia and blueberries. The farm is a reputable source for quality aronia and blueberry plants. Over 30 varieties of blueberries are grown and sold. Viking aronia plants are available for sale. Purchase your plants and get more information from http://www.blueberrycroft.com/. Get free S/H on orders of $75+. © 2011 May be reproduced in entirety with live link

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Growing Rabbiteye Blueberries, part 2 Pollination, Planting and Spacing

February 9th, 2012

Pollination

One of the imperative growing requirements of rabbiteye blueberries is their requirement for cross-pollination to produce fruit. Rabbiteye blueberries are not self fertile, they are infertile, and must have two or more varieties to pollinate each other. They need more than one variety to supply cross-pollination. For acceptable cross pollination, plant multiple varieties and make sure you plant the early blossoming ones with other early varieties and later varieties with other later varieties. On our farm we have 5 rabitteye varieties with the climax, premier and brightwell planted together and the later blooming varieties, tifblue and powderblue planted together.
Bumble bees and a orchard mason bees are very important. Bumble bees are good pollinators of blueberries bushes. The orchard mason bee (Osmia lignaria) is a gentle beneficial insect that has also potential as a good pollinator. Growers should provide locations around their growing area for nesting of orchard mason bees so enough bees are available when the plants are in bloom to produce good cross-pollination.

Honeybees are inefficient pollinators of blueberry plants. Carpenter bees frequently rob nectar without pollinating the flowers by cutting the corollas. Rabbiteyes do best when pollinated by buzz pollination by bees. Bumblebees are especially important for blueberries which need buzz pollination. The native southeastern blueberry bee, Habropoda laboriosa is also an effective buzz pollinator..

Planting and Spacing

. Plants of rabbiteye should be spaced in rows at least 10 feet apart so equipment can be used between the rows. The spacing between rabbiteye plants at maturity they need to be spaced about 6 feet apart because they grow so large. On the other hand when planting two year old plants, you can plant them 3 feet apart and plan to transplant every other one in another row at about 6 years of age. 3 spacing with rows 10 feet apart = 1450 plants per acre The advantage of this close spacing is that for the first few years the yield per acre will be about double that of 6 foot spacing and thereby double your income during that period.. Another potential advantage is if you use landscaping cloth to control the weeds you will only need ½ as much to protect the plants from weeds. Weeds are one of the major problems when growing blueberry plants and this is particularly true for young plants. The disadvantage of closer spacing is obviously the need to transplant every other plant of 5 or 6 years after planting them. You can weigh the advantages and disadvantage of each method and make a decision that best suits you. If you want a hedge they can be spaced about 3 feet apart. The rabbiteye blueberry plants if planted closer than 6 feet apart will be too crowded when they mature in 6 to 10 years.
In low flat fields with poor drainage, you should use raised beds to provide adequate surface drainage. Organic matter should be tilled thoroughly into the soil prior to planting. Prior to planting 1/4 to 1/2 bushel of organic matter per plant should be incorporated into the soil. Some of the best sources of organic matter are peat moss or shredded pine bark.

Purchase your bare-root plants or plants in a container from a reputable nursery such as Blueberry Croft farm and nursery. The best buy is two-year-old plants. They will give the good growth. Care should be taken to prevent the roots from drying out before they are planted. When plants are used directly from containers, the roots from the container may be matted together and must be separated and spread out when planting. Cut the tops back to about one-half their original height at planting so the roots, as they are getting established, can supply the needed nourishment and moisture to the plant.

Dig a hole twice as wide as the diameter of the bush’s root spread or root-ball. Thoroughly mix organic matter such as peat moss or pine bark fines into the planting hole. When the plant is removed from the container break open the root ball before planting it in the ground. Cut any circling roots, tear open the root ball and spread the roots out in the planting hole. Prune the tops back to about 6 and 12 inches in height. Do not remove any more than half the top growth.
Mix the excavated soil with peat moss or pine bark in about a 50-50 mixture. The amount of peat moss needed depends on the quality of the soil. In heavy clay you will need to use more peat moss while less is needed for sandy loam. Mound the soil mix in the hole to make a raised base 6 to 8 inches above ground level to help provide good drainage for the blueberry bush roots. Spread the roots and plant the bush at the same depth it grew in the pot. Press the soil firmly around the roots as you plant it and water thoroughly to avoid any air pockets.

Mulching

Mulch the blueberry bushes to a depth of about 5 inches with straw, wood chips, pine needles, hay, sawdust or other organic material. Pull the mulch back about 3 inches from the stem of the newly planted bush. This will help discourage rodents from getting next to the plant and chewing on the plant’s stem. The mulch layer should be about 3 to 4 feet wide (i.e. about 1 ½ to 2 feet on each side of the plant). Over time when the depth of the mulch decreases to about 3 inches, add fresh mulch as a top layer. Mulch conserves moisture, protects new roots, which grow at a very shallow depth and helps prevent heat stress.

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Growing Rabbiteye Blueberries, Part 1 Site Selection, Variety Selection

February 8th, 2012

Introduction
Rabbiteyes produce some of the healthiest and delicious blueberries grown in the Southern U.S. Rabbiteyes have few pest troubles and are easy to grow.
The rabbiteye blueberry is a Native American plant. They grow naturally in the southeastern United States, from North Carolina south to Florida and west to Texas. This variety is more resistant to the heat and drought than most other blueberry varieties. The growing zone in which they are suitable ranges from zones 6 to 9.
Rabbiteyes are more vigorous, live longer, and are easier to take care of than most southern highbush blueberry varieties. They are able to withstand drought better than southern highbush blueberries and can grow adequately in soils which are lower in organic matter. They are not self pollinating and require more than one variety for cross-pollination. Rabbiteyes require an acid soil the same as highbush blueberries but will tolerate soils with a little higher pH. They also can handle heat, and drier soils better.

Site Selection, Soil Preparation and Climate

The soil is the critical factor when it comes to growing a blueberry plant. Select a site that is in full to part sun with moist, well-aerated, acidic soils, well-drained soil and high in organic matter. One of the requirements of blueberries is that they need an acidic soil with a pH between4.5 and 5.1. Heavy mulches are needed to help manage the soil moisture. Definitely get a soil analysis before you start growing blueberries. Your local county extension office can help you with the soil analysis. Use sulfur to adjust the pH of the soil to lower acidity and add organic matter to further amend the soil. Use acidic mulch like oak leaves or pine bark to mulch the plants. Use an acid fertilizer like one for Azalea/ rhododendrons (12-4-8 fertilizer). Never put aluminum sulfate on a blueberry!!!
Sandy soils can be a problem since they cannot hold moisture this may be overcome by using drip irrigation. Clay soils with little organic material, with poor drainage can be a major problem. This problem can be defeated by adding lots of organic material and using raised beds to help provide good drainage. Rabbiteye blueberries can grow in zones 6 b to 9.

Variety Selection

It is desirable to select varieties with different ripening times so the length of your harvest time can be spread out. On the other hand it is important that at least two plants that bloom around the same time be planted to obtain cross-fertilization. Different varieties of rabbiteyes ripen at different times. The berries may ripen over a several week period. Some of the most widely grown rabbiteye blueberries today are listed in the following table.

Popular Rabbiteye varieties.

Early Season ripening
Climax
Brightwell
Premier

Mid Season ripening
Tifblue
Powderblue

Premier and Tifblue are common choices for rabbiteyes. They are both highly productive. Premier Rabbiteye has excellent flavor and it stores very well. Tifblue is the latest ripening of the rabbiteye varieties.
Tifblue is considered among best rabbiteyes. The Tiftblue blueberries are among the most flavorful rabbiteye blueberries. They are more capable of surviving cold than other rabbiteye blueberries varieties. It should probably be the main rabbiteye variety in any garden. Tifblue blueberry is a hybrid cultivar that has helped initiate the rise of the dramatic growth in growing rabbiteye blueberries. This growth has developed into a new blueberry Agricultural bonanza that is reshaping the economy of the South.
Powderblue in many respects is like Tifblue in appearance, quality, and mechanical harvesting characteristics. The two can be used as pollinators for each other. Powderblue flowers in late spring to early summer making it is less susceptible to late winter or early spring freezes. It is late season ripening.

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A Fast and Easy Blueberry Muffins Gluten-free Recipe

February 8th, 2012

Introduction

Muffins are generally somewhat like cupcakes in shape. The blueberry muffin has been chosen as the official state muffin of Minnesota. The Muffin is very well-liked and is basically soft bread, or a type of cake.
Muffin cups are often used in the baking of muffins. They make it easier to remove the finished muffin from the tin. This facilitates removal and cleanup, makes moister muffins and easier handling. Also paper muffin cups help to keep the muffins from falling apart.
Baking muffins is an easy task. These are treats that make quick breakfasts and snacks.Freshly baked muffins are an excellent item to serve as part of a bed and breakfast meal. You can often prepare muffin batters ahead of time and put the batter into paper lined muffin tins ready for baking. In the morning just pop the muffins in the oven first thing.

.Blueberry muffins gluten-free ingredients

2 cups gluten-free flour mix ( see recipe below) (If you do not want gluten-free muffins just use regular flour.)
¼ cup fructevia
1 Tablespoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
3/4 teaspoon xanthum gum
2 teaspoons cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cups milk
1/3 cup coconut or olive oil
2 eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 cup frozen blueberries

Gluten Free Flour Mix

6 cups brown rice flour (extra finely ground)
2 cups potato starch (not potato flour)
1 cup tapioca flour

Directions

Heat oven to 350 degrees and place muffin cups in muffin tin (makes about 18).
Combine all the dry ingredients (first 8 ingredients listed in recipe) in a large mixing bowl and set aside.
Combine milk and oil in another bowl then whip in the eggs and vanilla.
Slowly add the liquid mixture into flour mixture while blending it with a spoon.
Use a 1 tablespoon of the flour to cover the blueberries then evenly distribute the blueberries by gently folding them into batter.
Fill paper-lined muffin pans only about 2/3 full and bake 20-25 minutes or until muffins begin to turn light golden brown.

Tips for Marvelous Muffins

• The primary rule of making muffins is do not over mix the batter unless you want them dense and brick-like instead of muffins
• This recipe makes a bread-like muffin. Adding butter and more sweetener produces something closer to cake.
• All ingredients should be at room temperature. Mix the dry ingredients then gently whisk the wet ingredients. A spatula or wooden spoon generally works well to gently stir the two together. It is not a problem if there are small lumps.

• You can add any other ingredients you desire such as fruit, nuts, etc. after lightly combining the wet and dry ingredients.
• The last mixing step is to gently fold in the blueberries to the muffin batter. Excessive-mixing may cause breakage of the blueberries and result in color bleeding.
• A thick and lumpy batter that is exactly what you want. You can use a spoon or a small scoop to fill the muffin tins.
• Position your oven rack in the middle of the oven for even heat distribution
• Let muffins cool for a few minutes before dumping them out of the pan

• They are delicious right from the oven, but taste just as good when cooled and reheated for 20 seconds in the microwave.
• By putting muffins in plastic bags and freezing them you can save them and have muffins anytime you want them at a later time. Muffins can be stored this way for up to two months and still stay fresh. Just thaw, still wrapped, at room temperature.

Grow your own blueberries

You can purchase plants from a reputable source and grow your own pesticide free blueberries. Blueberries require acidic soil of pH around 4.5 to 5.1 and regular watering. If you plant 6 to 12 plants you can harvest enough to supply you with blueberries for the whole year. Freezing them does not cause them to lose any of their nutrients or health benefits.

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Use of Fabric Weed Barriers for Weed Control

February 7th, 2012

Introduction

Good markets exist for organically grown blueberries and they are well-suited to grow organically. They are the most widely grown fruit crop in the U.S.
Weed control is one of the greatest challenges when establishing a new blueberry planting. Weeds compete with blueberry plants for essential water, nutrients and sunlight. Effective weed control begins about one year before planting by using a combination of pre-plant herbicides and cultivation. Planting rows should be thoroughly prepared and free of weeds before blueberry bushes are planted. For many growers weeds are considered to be the major problem in establishing an organic blueberry field.
Blueberry bushes, especially young ones, suffer starvation if weeds or lawn are allowed to grow too close. Blueberry roots do not grow deep and are close to the soil surface and need to be protected against competing weeds. Mulching is the most common recommended method of weed control around plants
A promising alternative to only organic mulching is the use of fabric weed barriers along with the regular application of aerated compost tea rich in nutrients and microorganisms. To provide adequate nutrients and needed microorganisms to the soil and plants aerated compost tea is required. The use of fabric weed barriers is highly effective for weed control and they allow water to pass through. A 4-foot wide weed-free strip of landscape fabric centered on the plant row, should be maintained for the first few years of the blueberry planting.
Landscaping fabric does not provide all the benefits of deep organic mulch. However landscaping fabric allows water to pass through and is highly effective for weed control. Although the initial cost is high, when amortized over the fabric’s expected lifetime of 5 to 10 years it may prove cost-effective. To prevent premature deterioration, all landscape fabric must be covered with mulch. All fabric must be removed before it decomposes. Have a plan in place to deal with the fabric when this eventuality happens.

How to use Landscape Fabric

Work lots of compost into the soil, prepare raised beds.
Remove Weeds and Grasses from planting area. Rake smooth.
Place fabric around existing plants, or cut an “X” and install new plants.
For best results, secure fabric with anchor pins or plastic pins.
Cover area with pine bark, or mulch. To prevent premature deterioration, all landscape fabric must be covered with mulch.
Apply regular application of aerated compost tea rich in nutrients and microorganisms.

Install irrigation

Do not use non porous black plastic
Do not use Non-porous black plastic mulches for blueberries. The plastic does not allow water to pass through. Polyethylene plastic mulch also encourages surface rooting-making the blueberry plants more susceptible to drought stress and winter injury.
Weed control between the rows
Sod should be established between the rows and maintained by mowing. You can allow some weeds and cover crops to grow in the rows between the blueberry bushes. For example dandelions are a good weed to allow to grow. It puts down a long tap-root and brings up nutrients from down deep in the soil to the surface. When these are mowed these nutrients are available to your crops.
Usually mowing three to five times per year is an effective means of controlling weeds and other growth in sodded middles. Weeds must not be allowed to produce seed that may fall into the rows and later germinate. A weed-free strip 6 to 10 inch wide area is sometimes maintained between the sod between the rows and the strip covered by landscaping cloth to help avoid invasion of weeds and sod into the blueberry growing area. The weed free strip also has the added advantage of discouraging cutworms which are an occasional pest in blueberries.

Purchase your pesticide free aronia and blueberries from (Blueberry Croft Farm and Nursery). We understand both the theory and practical applications of growing aronia and blueberries. The farm is a reputable source for quality aronia and blueberry plants. Over 30 varieties of blueberries are grown and sold. Viking aronia plants are available for sale. Purchase your plants and get more information from http://www.blueberrycroft.com/. Get free S/H on orders of $75+. © 2011 May be reproduced in entirety with live link

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